Simon Rion Larmes de Meunier 2022 Extra Brut | Champagne, France

Simon Rion has created separate single-vineyard mono-varietal wines - the ‘Larmes’ range. Vinified in oak barriques for 11 months they mark a move towards more distinct, boutique Champagnes of very small volumes.

Made from 100% Pinot Meunier grapes from a single plot Norton (which at just 0.05 ha consists of just a few rows of vines) planted in 1957. It has clay soil with a south-west exposure. Vinification is 100% in oak barrels, two of 228 lt and one of 400 lt capacity; 11 months in total on the lees, with stirring during alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. Bottle ageing is 30 months with remuage; disgorged in October 2025. Dosage is 1g/l.

The 2022 vintage was limited to just 793 bottles and 40 magnums produced.

Rion’s 2.14 hectare family estate lies entirely within Courmas - a small village located in the Petite Montagne de Reims region, 10 km southwest of Reims. Here there is a more unique terroir, the regions predominantly limestone soil is heavier due to a higher clay content.

Simon is the 4th generation of growers, succeeding grandfather Guy and father Pascal Rion when taking over the family estate in 2007. He is, though, the first to bottle champagne under the Rion name. Overall production is 17,000 bottles.

The three main grape varieties are grown: but specialising in Pinot Meunier (1.2 hectares) and Pinot Noir (0.85 ha) with just 0.1 ha of Chardonnay; the average age of vines is 25 years. Meticulous vineyard management, with the intention of preserving a rich bio-diversity of the soils, is reflected in the quality and character of his wines.

The use of herbicides and pesticides was stopped in 2017. The practice of sustainable viticulture is guided by Simon’s vision, convictions, and respect for the environment. High Environmental Value (HVE) and Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne (VDC) certifications reflect his efforts. Now on the path to organic certification is a logical conclusion to his learnt experience and desire to produce more terroir-driven and sustainable Champagnes.

Simon defines the style of his Champagnes as “balance, structure and texture”. They are accessible but at the same time very distinctive: spicy and smooth, balanced between maturity and freshness, body and precision. The main cuvées match this profile: matured in stainless steel and concrete tanks whilst undergoing longer lees ageing and lower dosage than other Houses. The base wine is enhanced with reserve wines from a solera and most cuvees are aged for a minimum of three years in the cellar. There is very little intervention in the winery - limited pumping, no filtration, cold stabilisation or fining - to emphasise the wine’s terroir and the grape’s quality.